白色冬季 - 美丽雪景壁纸 （含 1920*1440 ）

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浅谈冬天雪景的拍摄：
雪是洁白的晶体物，它散布下或积聚在景物上时，景物中色调深浅不一的物体都给它遮盖而成为白色的物体，因而雪景就是白色部分较多的景物，可给人以洁白可爱的感觉。

正因为雪景中白色部分占据的面积较大，也比其它景物明亮，在有太阳光线照射时，就更加明亮。它在胶卷上感光也比一般景物灵敏，雪是一粒粒透明的晶体，只有在较远的地方才能明显地表现它的这种质感。因此，为要表现出雪景的明暗层次以及表现出较近地方雪粒的透明质感，运用逆光或后侧光拍摄雪景最为适宜。这样，即使是远景也因逆光或侧逆光而产生深远的气氛。

如果以正面光或顶光拍雪景，由于光线平正或垂直照的关系，不但不能使雪白微细的晶体物产生明暗层次和质感，而且会使物体失去立体感。但是，逆光或侧面光照射在白色面积较大的雪景上，未被雪遮盖的其它色调的物体必然会因此而容易成为黑色的物体。为使雪景中的白雪和其它色调的物体都能够有层次显现，拍雪景就必须采用柔和太阳光线。

正在下雪的时候拍摄雪景，也如下雨拍摄一样，必须有深色的背景作衬托，才易于显现出正在天空飞舞的雪花。如果拍摄天空范围较广的景物，那就只有在一些深色物体前的空间中才能看见雪花，其它部分雪花是不能显现的。
在阳光下拍摄雪景，为了使蔚蓝的天空不至过白，拍摄可以根据需要使用滤色镜（偏振镜）。

为获得更为简洁的雪景画面，又能清晰地表现雪中物体的层次和线条，可选择线条较美的局部景物，并用柔和的逆光、侧逆光拍摄，这样，可使雪中物体的层次线条都能充分显现。

雪景的特点是，反光极强，亮度极高，它与暗处的景物相比，明暗反差对比强烈。这一反差级数是远远超过感光片的宽容度的。拍摄时，如果不充分估计到这一特点。画面的影纹和层次就要受到损失。拍出的照片或是白雪曝光过度，一片死白；或是暗处景物曝光不足，没有影纹。所以拍雪景时，既要反映出雪的特点，又要照顾到雪与其它景物的反差问题。

拍摄时要注意：

1、拍雪景不宜采用阴天的散漫光或顺光，因为这种光线不利于表现雪的质感。一般多采用侧光、逆光或侧逆光。使用侧光或逆光时，阴暗部分最好加用补助光，可用闪光灯、反光板，或利用周围环境中的白色反射物。

2、拍摄时，可加用滤光镜。除蓝色滤光镜外，其它颜色的滤光镜都可以吸收蓝、紫短波光，从而减弱雪地的亮度。一般多加UV或黄滤光镜，橙、红色滤光镜会使天空的色调过暗。拍彩色片时，多加用偏振镜。因为宽可以吸收雪地反射的偏振光，降低雪地的亮度，调节影调，而偏振镜又不影响原景物的颜色。加用偏振镜可以使蓝天里的白云突出，还可提高色彩的饱和度。

3、曝光时，应以主体作为曝光的依据。为了降低雪与暗处景物的反差，可采用增加曝光，减少显影的办法。增加曝光量，可照顾暗处的影纹密度；而减少显影时间，又可仰制了亮处影纹密度的显现。这种办法右以在一定程度上减弱雪景的反差。一般曝光量可增加一挡到二挡，显影时间最短不可短于正常显影时间的1/3。

4、拍摄漫天飞雪的景致时，快门速度不要太高，一般要在1/60秒以下，这样可使飞舞的雪花形成一道道线条，有雪花飘落的动感。要选用深暗的景物为背景，这样才可以把白色雪片衬托出来。

5、利用带雪或挂满冰凌的树枝、树杆、建筑物等作为前景，可以提高雪景的表现力。因为这些前景不仅能使画面产生变化，增加空间深度，而且能增强人们对雪景的感受。

6、如果拍摄的画面只是单一的雪原、雪山时，雪本身的反差又很小，这时要有意识地选择好衬景。要使雪景与周围灰白色调的景物区分出来。

Winter Snow photography

Snowy landscapes are among the trickiest situations to photograph with digital cameras. The exposure and white balance settings can easily be fooled by the bright lighting conditions.

Whether the sky is overcast or the sun is shining, special care must be taken to avoid messing up the colours completely. The very bright snow acts as a second light source by reflecting sunlight shining on the ground.

The basics of photographing snow
Some cameras offer a Snow or Winter setting, and this feature can be very helpful. It usually corrects the Auto white balance calculation of the camera and lowers the exposure value to avoid over-exposing the image.

The Snow mode is usually efficient and delivers more than acceptable results. However, it is not perfect, and not always available depending on the brand and model digital camera. Moreover, using this mode usually means the photographer loses control over aperture and shutter speed, limiting creativity. Luckily, there are ways to take beautiful snow pictures even without the help of a preset scene mode.

Photographing snow under clouds
If the day is cloudy as often happens in winter, the white balance is easy to set. The Cloudy setting generally available on most cameras works well in this situation and produces accurate colours.

The exposure often needs correction, however, and lowering the EV compensation by -0.7 or -1 is a good rule of thumb. To be on the safe side, using Center-weighted or even Spot metering is a good way to reduce the risks over-exposing your images, as long as the center of the frame is bright. [Why use minus EV]

Photographing snow on sunny days
If the sky is blue and the light is very bright, setting the white balance accurately is even more important. Most of the time the preset white balance modes cannot handle this situation, resulting in a strong blue cast in all your images. In this case, the best way to achieve a correct white balance is to use the Custom or Manual white balance mode. By simply pointing the camera to a clean patch of snow, a proper balance of colours can be set that will remain valid for your entire session.

But beware of shadows! Even on a seemingly uniform patch of snow there can be darker areas, and using them to set the white balance will produce an incorrect colour cast.

In sunlit conditions it's even more important to avoid over-exposing images. Set the exposure while framing a bright area, compensate by lowering the EV value, or use spot metering. If your camera offers a histogram, use it to make sure no part of the image is overexposed. Be careful not to under-expose so your snow looks white, not too gray.